Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone
Chief Joseph Scenic Byway
Mon, 7/14/08
Yellowstone NP, WY: Decided to drive the Beartooth Scenic Byway and the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. Got up early and left at 7:00 a.m. and decided to stop at Roosevelt Lodge for breakfast which is the only lodge we hadn’t seen yet. Roosevelt Lodge was built in 1906 to commemorate the visit by then President Theodore Roosevelt in 1903. He was here to dedicate the Roosevelt Arch at the north entrance. He came and camped for two weeks in the area where they ended up building the lodge. This is the smallest and most rustic of the lodges. It’s a log structure with a big porch lined with rocking chairs and has big picture windows looking out to the mountains. The huge logs still have their bark. The lodge itself is a dining room only. There are rustic cabins all over which is where you’d actually stay. If we were to stay at any of the lodges, it would be this one. It took us 1 ½ hours just to get to Roosevelt. Saw a herd of deer, elk, a coyote, a small black bear, and of course the ubiquitous bison.
After breakfast we started out for the northeast entrance. This took us through the Lamar Valley which has rolling, rock- and boulder-strewn hills and lots of sage brush. I think the Hayden Valley is prettier—more green and lush. The Lamar Valley is where all the elk are supposed to be, but we didn’t see any. After leaving the park the first town we came to was Silver Gate—a cute little place with all log structures. Really small. The next town was Cooke City. We stopped at their general store which has been in continuous operation since 1886. The original cash register and all the shelves, counters, etc. are still there. The original cash register only goes to $3.00. They use a newer one (circa 1890) now. It is a really special place—like stepping back in time. We continued on our way, steadily going up. The Beartooth goes up into really high country—above tree line into an alpine tundra. There is still a lot of snow up there. We saw a guy with skis and poles strapped to his back. Can’t believe he could do any skiing up there—it was very steep. Coming out of the Beartooth we stopped at the little town of Red Lodge for lunch. I love this little town! The historic main street is lined with sandstone and red brick buildings built around 1890. And the little main street movie theater is still in operation. We left there and headed towards Cody. We decided to make a big loop of it instead of backtracking through the high country again. Just outside of Red Lodge was an abandoned coal mine—the Smith Mine. One of the worse mining disasters in Montana history took place here. An explosion killed 79 people. We picked up the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway just north of Cody. This was a spectacular drive which traces the route the wildlife took in their migration—and of course the Indians following. Chief Joseph and his Nez Perce used this route when fleeing from the Calvary. At Dead Indian Pass (on Dead Indian Mountain) we stopped at an overlook to enjoy the beautiful vista. Chief Joseph had to leave a wounded Indian in this area while being chased, and the Calvary finished him off—such brave souls—so since then it’s been called Dead Indian Mountain. The Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone goes through this area down in a deep gorge—1200 feet in some areas. It is truly spectacular, rugged country. I liked the Chief Joseph drive much better. We didn’t get back until after 8:00. A 13-hour day. Saw two more black bears on the way back—one with a cute little cub. A spectacular day again. It hit 89 just before we turned onto the Chief Joseph Byway. 70s in the mountains.
After breakfast we started out for the northeast entrance. This took us through the Lamar Valley which has rolling, rock- and boulder-strewn hills and lots of sage brush. I think the Hayden Valley is prettier—more green and lush. The Lamar Valley is where all the elk are supposed to be, but we didn’t see any. After leaving the park the first town we came to was Silver Gate—a cute little place with all log structures. Really small. The next town was Cooke City. We stopped at their general store which has been in continuous operation since 1886. The original cash register and all the shelves, counters, etc. are still there. The original cash register only goes to $3.00. They use a newer one (circa 1890) now. It is a really special place—like stepping back in time. We continued on our way, steadily going up. The Beartooth goes up into really high country—above tree line into an alpine tundra. There is still a lot of snow up there. We saw a guy with skis and poles strapped to his back. Can’t believe he could do any skiing up there—it was very steep. Coming out of the Beartooth we stopped at the little town of Red Lodge for lunch. I love this little town! The historic main street is lined with sandstone and red brick buildings built around 1890. And the little main street movie theater is still in operation. We left there and headed towards Cody. We decided to make a big loop of it instead of backtracking through the high country again. Just outside of Red Lodge was an abandoned coal mine—the Smith Mine. One of the worse mining disasters in Montana history took place here. An explosion killed 79 people. We picked up the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway just north of Cody. This was a spectacular drive which traces the route the wildlife took in their migration—and of course the Indians following. Chief Joseph and his Nez Perce used this route when fleeing from the Calvary. At Dead Indian Pass (on Dead Indian Mountain) we stopped at an overlook to enjoy the beautiful vista. Chief Joseph had to leave a wounded Indian in this area while being chased, and the Calvary finished him off—such brave souls—so since then it’s been called Dead Indian Mountain. The Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone goes through this area down in a deep gorge—1200 feet in some areas. It is truly spectacular, rugged country. I liked the Chief Joseph drive much better. We didn’t get back until after 8:00. A 13-hour day. Saw two more black bears on the way back—one with a cute little cub. A spectacular day again. It hit 89 just before we turned onto the Chief Joseph Byway. 70s in the mountains.
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