Tuesday, June 30, 2009



Fireplace inside Hermit's Rest


One of four Condors soaring in the thermals

Mule train on the Bright Angel Trail
Looks like a supply train

You can actually hear the rapids from this spot on the South Rim


Hermit's Rest
Another building by architect Mary Colter

Mon, 6/29/09
Mather NF Campground, Grand Canyon, South Rim: This morning we drove back over to Bright Angel Lodge to park and catch the shuttle out to Hermit’s Rest. This part of the South Rim is not accessible by car—you have to take the shuttle. They make 9 stops before ending at Hermit’s Rest. While waiting for the shuttle we saw three Condors soaring above a side canyon. These birds are huge--having something like a 9 foot wing span. We were lucky to see them. Our first stop was just on the other side of this side canyon. Got some amazing views of Bright Angel Trail and saw a mule train making its way up the trail. This trail is the easiest of the inner canyon trails. The worst part (for me) would be the initial series of switch-backs getting off the cliff. But the trail is wide and you could hug the cliff wall. Doesn’t sound like fun though. We stopped at most of the overlooks heading out but saved some for the return trip. You could get off and on wherever—they ran every 15 minutes or so. And you could walk the rim trail which went all the way to Hermit’s Rest. It’s called Hermit’s Rest because a Canadian prospector by the name of Boucher lived just over the rim by falling spring for 20 years. The building there at Hermit’s Rest was also designed by architect Mary Colter. Back on the shuttle stopping one more time with an amazing view of the Colorado. In fact, we spotted a boat trip down there. Seven boats. The river looked muddier than usual—probably because of the rain a couple of days ago. Back to where we got on the shuttle and then we walked over to Bright Angel Lodge and had a late lunch in the Arizona Room. We both had brisket with apple cider barbeque sauce. After lunch we walked back to historic Kolb Studio on the rim trail. This studio/home of Emory Kolb—photographer/river runner—was built right on the brink. It is now a library/book store and has great views of the Bright Angel Creek area and Indian Garden. It’s now about 3:30 and 89 degrees on the rim and looking down (way down) the Bright Angel Trail were some hikers trudging up the trail. It had to be well over 100 degrees down there with very little shade. That’s how hikers get in trouble. Hope they had lots of water. Walked back to our parking spot and drove back to our camp site. Very pleasant outside under the awning. Sat outside reading/relaxing for a while.

Colorado River as seen from South Rim

Sun, 6/28/09

Mather NF Campground, Grand Canyon, South Rim:
This morning after taking our showers we filled the fresh water tank. While we were home this spring, Mike bought a small transfer pump that we use to pump water from our six gallon containers into the tank. It works really well and eliminates the need to lift this very heavy container. I don’t know what six gallons of water weighs, but it’s a lot. We drove out of the park back to Tusayan and had lunch at the cafĂ© there. Then we went over to see the National Geographic IMAX movie on the Grand Canyon. It was really great. They had a replica of the wooden boats that the Powell crew used when they ran the river in 1869. The one-armed Powel was a Civil War veteran who had his arm amputated during the war. I think they did it in 79 days. Back then though the water was warm in the summer. Now, since the building of the Glen Canyon dam, the water in the river is around 45. Very cold! After the movie we drove back to our camp site and sat around relaxing and reading. Saw a moose. In the evening we turned on NPR and listened to “Prairie Home Companion”, broadcasting from Tanglewood in Massachusetts. Very entertaining two-hour show. Mike built a fire later and we sat around enjoying that. A beautiful, sunny day again today. It hit 88 today.
People get out on these scary outcroppings to get the perfect picture. Sometimes they misstep into 1200 ft. of nothing but air. Don't need that gene pool anymore anyway.

Cactus in bloom on Rim Trail

El Tovar Lodge

Sat, 6/27/09
Mather NF Campground, Grand Canyon, South Rim: This morning we decided to drive south on Rt. 64 to the south entrance of the park and the little town of Tusayan. There’s a National Geographic IMAX film we want to see there. Also checked out the National Forest campground a little south of town which is another nice one. Back to our campsite and had a light lunch and read a little. Then we drove over to Yavapai (Yah-vah-pie) Point and Observation Station. I believe this building was constructed in the early 1900s and offers a spectacular view of the canyon from both the rim trail and inside the building. We could see Phantom Ranch (on the Colorado River), the metal bridge spanning the Colorado, Bright Angel Trail, and you could almost see Indian Garden. Walked the rim trail for a while which goes right along the rim with no walls or guard rails. It’s mostly paved so really easy walking. But I was amazed again at the behavior of the people on the trail. This one mother had her kids sit on a rock at the edge of an abyss so she could get their picture. One of the kids started to go around the boulder which would have meant a shear drop until she screamed at him. Another parked their two kids in a stroller very close to the edge and left them unattended while they checked out the view. We walked down to Mather Point and then back to Yavapai. Drove over to the rim lodges and parked by Bright Angel Lodge and then walked the rim trail to El Tovar Lodge to have dinner. Pretty fancy and very pricy, but it was good and we had a great view of the canyon from our table. After dinner I wanted to walk part of the Bright Angel Trail which starts a little way down from Bright Angel Lodge. My fear of heights would never allow me to hike this trail. It starts with a series of switchbacks right on the edge. I could never do it. The mule rides go down this trail also. Back home and sat outside for a while enjoying the great evening. 81 today. Went down to the 40s last night.
Watchtower replica of ones Anasazi and other ancients built thousands of years ago

In the Kiva, looking up at two more levels



Hopi Paintings in the Watchtower/Kiva

This place is awsomely beautiful and dangerous at the same time

Fri, 6/26/09
Mather NF Campground, Grand Canyon, South Rim: Rained last night. A nice, steady rain. Great sleeping. And I started reading the book, “Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon”. An amazing read. It’s amazing how stupid people are. They disregard the walls, climb over and get out on an outcropping so they can get their picture taken or whatever. One went over two days ago. Everywhere we stopped people were taking great chances—until a ranger would come along and give them a talking to. They had to get a 350 lb. woman out of the canyon who was hiking in flip-flops with no water. Anyway, this book is a great anthology of episodes in the canyon written by a couple of park rangers. We left early this morning and headed back to desert view where we first came in yesterday. Started pouring down rain with lightning and thunder. Dashed into the restaurant for breakfast there and after eating checked out the Watchtower—which is a recreation of these strange, prehistoric towers built by the Anasazi and other ancients. Mary Colter was the architect and also designed Bright Angel Lodge, Phantom Ranch, and several others. The second level of the tower is a Kiva with beautiful pictographs representing Indian ceremonies painted by a Hopi artist. I think there are 4 levels in the tower—each one with beautiful Indian paintings. The top of the tower is the highest point on the South Rim with great views of the canyon. While taking pictures outside a piece of rock fell from somewhere and you could hear it falling and echoing all the way down. Started driving in the direction of our campground stopping at all the turn-outs to gaze at this magnificent place. We also stopped at a Tusayan Pueblo ruin. They lived here 1100 years ago. Had lunch at Bright Angel Lodge. Again it started pouring down rain. And the temperatures were now in the upper 50s. And people were in shorts and tank tops freezing. When you were in the sun though, even though the thermometer said 60, it felt much warmer. Back to our campsite to relax the rest of the afternoon.
Hance Rapid

Thu, 6/25/09

Gouldings Monument Valley RV Resort to Mather NF Campground, Grand Canyon, South Rim: Up this morning and decided to vacuum before we leave since we won’t have hook-ups for 7 days. Went to the Monument Valley Lodge Restaurant one last time, had breakfast, and enjoyed the view. Back to our site and finished getting ready to leave. Left around 11:00 and backtracked to Kayenta and Tuba City. At Cameron we headed north towards the South Rim. Think it was 95 in Cameron. We headed up, up, up under low, leaden clouds. Started seeing the Little Colorado River Canyon which was pretty awesome. And there were dirt roads running right along the rim—at least 1000 feet straight down. Still heading up through a beautiful forest of ancient cedars. We finally made it to the top and the park entrance. And then you see the first view. Wow! After that the only words I uttered to Mike was “Oh My God” and “slow down!”. We had another 28 miles to go to get to the campground. And we drove through a beautiful forest of ancient cedars, junipers and old growth pines. Saw a beautiful elk along the road—his antlers covered with velvet at this time of year. Finally made it to the campground and saw two more elk right in the campground. They put us in a pull-through site which we barely fit in. But we made it! A really nice site in the pines and cedars. Nobody close to us. Looking forward to no hook-ups. Fired up my GE super radio which runs on batteries or 110. Grilled pork chops and I made a macaroni/tunafish salad and cooked up some corn. Pretty good. Turned on NPR and heard that Farah Fawcett died. And Michael Jackson!. I’m shocked about Michael. I loved his music. 76 up here on the rim.