Hance Rapid

Thu, 6/25/09

Gouldings Monument Valley RV Resort to Mather NF Campground, Grand Canyon, South Rim: Up this morning and decided to vacuum before we leave since we won’t have hook-ups for 7 days. Went to the Monument Valley Lodge Restaurant one last time, had breakfast, and enjoyed the view. Back to our site and finished getting ready to leave. Left around 11:00 and backtracked to Kayenta and Tuba City. At Cameron we headed north towards the South Rim. Think it was 95 in Cameron. We headed up, up, up under low, leaden clouds. Started seeing the Little Colorado River Canyon which was pretty awesome. And there were dirt roads running right along the rim—at least 1000 feet straight down. Still heading up through a beautiful forest of ancient cedars. We finally made it to the top and the park entrance. And then you see the first view. Wow! After that the only words I uttered to Mike was “Oh My God” and “slow down!”. We had another 28 miles to go to get to the campground. And we drove through a beautiful forest of ancient cedars, junipers and old growth pines. Saw a beautiful elk along the road—his antlers covered with velvet at this time of year. Finally made it to the campground and saw two more elk right in the campground. They put us in a pull-through site which we barely fit in. But we made it! A really nice site in the pines and cedars. Nobody close to us. Looking forward to no hook-ups. Fired up my GE super radio which runs on batteries or 110. Grilled pork chops and I made a macaroni/tunafish salad and cooked up some corn. Pretty good. Turned on NPR and heard that Farah Fawcett died. And Michael Jackson!. I’m shocked about Michael. I loved his music. 76 up here on the rim.

The traditional Navajo home--the Hogan

The outside shade structure

Victoria getting her feet wet

Our Navajo Guide, Victoria, and her jeep

White House Cliff Dwelling from the South Rim Overlook

One of the South Rim Overlooks

Gouldings Monument Valley RV Resort: Up early and had breakfast at the Lodge this morning. Then headed out to Canyon de Chelly. Went through little towns of Rough Rock, Chilchinbito, Many Farms, and Chinle. Went through some really rural areas and fantastic vistas. In some places it’s more desert-like with sand drifting onto the road. Lots of sand drifting onto the road. We saw lots of the traditional Navajo house—the Hogan (Ho-gan’). It’s made of logs and then covered with mud with the door facing east. Has a hole on top in the middle for a stove vent. And then outside they usually build a “shade” structure where they do their outside chores protected from the sun. Anyway, I checked into the jeep tours. Their vehicles are bigger than the ones here at Gouldings and bounce around pretty good—the locals call them the “shake and bake”. So I decided to hire a local to take us through the canyon in her jeep. It’s really something down there at the bottom of the canyon. There are 50 families that live down there—even though it’s a National Monument. We saw several cliff dwellings, some petroglyphys and pictographs. Our guide’s name was Victoria. She runs tours and also owns a coffee house near the mouth of the canyon. She was raised in the canyon. Her father was born there and still owns land there. He runs horseback tours. Even though she drove really slow we got bounced around pretty good. I’m taking drugs and hoping they work. There were sheep, cattle, and horses down there. There are several branches of the canyon---she took us up the Canyon de Muerto. After the jeep tour we drove the south rim road. Stopped at overlooks and were amazed at the vistas. After that we had dinner in Chinle—Navajo flat bread again—and headed back to Gouldings. Hit 95 today. Tomorrow we leave for the south rim of the Grand Canyon.

Prickly Pear Cactus in Bloom

Monument Valley Butte

Monument Valley Backcountry

Gouldings Monument Valley RV Resort: Decided to do the laundry and grocery shopping today. We were going to take a ride to Canyon de Chelly today, but my back is not great since our four-wheel drive tour into the Valley yesterday. But it was worth it. Drugs are helping. So, we took care of some chores and kicked back reading. Warmer today and cloudier—93. Our neighbor with the Westy left today heading to Moab. He’s from Tucson. Just he and his dog in a big motor home pulling a jeep. Tomorrow we’ll go to Canyon de Chelly. They have a four-wheel tour of the bottom of the canyon. We’ll see.

Three Sisters

After filming for the day, director John Ford used to take his director's chair out onto this promontory where the horse and rider are standing and relax with his cigar.

It's called Ford Point

What a beautiful, mystical place

Hole in the Rock

Petroglyph

Hole in the rock

On top of this spire--called Totem Pole--Clint Eastwood filmed a scene during the

movie "Eiger Sanction". The top measures 20 ft. by 20 ft. Not very big.

More desert-like in the backcountry. In the foreground is all a very fine sand dune.

Gouldings Monument Valley RV Resort, UT: A beautiful, sunny morning. Last night the stars were amazing. I walked over to the office this morning and booked us on the 3:30 tour. It’s a 3-1/2 hour tour that takes you to some restricted places so we decided to do it instead of driving ourselves. Came back and got talking to the guy in the motor home behind us. He has the cutest Westy. He mentioned a canyon he had just come from--Canyon de Chelly (pronounced Canyon de Shay)—which is a National Monument about 3 hours southeast of us. We may do that before we leave. Relaxed outside reading for a while and then decided to hike the little trail going up the big rock formation in the campground. It winds around through this beautiful rocky area to a natural arch. I took pictures with my cell phone camera. Didn’t want to lug my camera up there. A couple pulled into the site next to us from Holland. They’re on a four-week trip in a rental RV. They are also going on the 3:30 tour. At 3:30 we all gathered for the tour under a cloudless cerulean sky. Loaded up and off we go. The first part of the tour we could have done in our own vehicle, but the second part went into the back country and was well worth the extra time and money. We saw some amazing cliffs, bluffs, and rock formations. And it was very desert-like with rippling hills of sand. They have sidewinders up there. We were hoping to see one. We stopped several times for pictures and at several places with holes in the rocks and petroglyphs. An amazing place. Even with four-wheel drive, the going was very rough. We were bitching about the speed bumps in the parking lot, but after that tour they were nothing. And by the end of the tour we were all covered in a fine layer of ocher dust. How earthy. After the tour we went to the Lodge restaurant for dinner. We both had the beef stew with the Navajo fry bread. Delicious!

Gouldings Monument Valley RV Resort, UT: Decided to just kick back today. Sat outside reading into the early afternoon. I just finished “A Land Remembered” by Patrick D. Smith—a historical novel of Florida. A great read and hard to put down. I’m now reading “Lone Survivor” about a Navy SEAL team’s mission in Afghanistan where they were ambushed by al Qaeda fighters and only one survived. Pretty good so far. Mike is reading “Cross” by James Patterson—another good read. We went over to the restaurant here and had dinner. I had spicy pork and green chili stew with Navajo fry bread which was really good. Mike had a burger on Navajo fry bread. I think we’re getting hooked on the fry bread. A beautiful, sunny day today. Hit 88. The wind really whips in this canyon.

Mexican Hat Rock Formation

Town of Mexican Hat is named after this landmark

Beautiful Monument Valley

Goulding's Trading Post

Est. 1924

Home/office of Capt. Nathan Brittles

John Wayne's character in "She Wore a Yellow Ribbon"

Gouldings--Monument Valley

Goosenecks State Park

Supposedly the most stunning example of an entrenched river meander

(whatever that means)

San Juan River

About 3/4 of the way up

Mike on the edge trying to get a good shot

They call this road a "dugaway" because it's dug into the side of a cliff
That's where the road started way down below

View from the top of the mesa

Getting there was not fun

Anasazi ruins on top of the mesa

This is the Kiva, or ceremonial chamber

Prickly Pear Cactus in Bloom

Ancient Anasazi Cliff Dwelling

Gouldings Monument Valley RV Resort, UT: Woke up this morning to the patter of rain. Haven’t seen rain in a while. Went over to the restaurant for breakfast and after that went through the Gouldings Trading Post which is now a museum. Harry Goulding and his wife Leone (her nickname was Mike) came to Monument Valley in the early 1920s and set up a trading post. They conducted business with the local Navajo people who traded hand crafted items for food and other goods. The Gouldings lived upstairs over the Trading Post. Very nice place. John Wayne stayed with them when he was filming in the area. When the depression hit in the 1930s the Navajo people suffered greatly. The Gouldings heard of a movie crew scouting locations and so with their last $60 they set out for Hollywood, California, and managed to get a meeting with director John Ford. When Ford saw the pictures of Monument Valley he immediately gave them an advanced payment and in a few days filming started on “Stagecoach” with John Wayne. The Navajos were given parts in the movie and other jobs servicing the actors and crew. They actually filmed right here at the trading post and the surrounding area. After the museum we drove north to Mexican Hat, UT—named after the landmark rock formation. Made a side trip to Gooseneck State Park where the San Juan River makes 4 goosenecks through a deep canyon. Then I said, let’s continue north on this road and make a big loop stopping at Bluff for dinner and then back home. So we started up this road (State Rt. 261) which starts out paved, turns into gravel with 180 degree switchbacks and goes up the side of this huge mesa. 11% grade! I was freaking out. In some places the road wasn’t wide enough for two cars because of the boulders jutting out. And it was right on the edge! We finally made it to the top and just before that an eighteen-wheeler was coming the other way. I was so glad when we made it to the top. We stopped and walked around the granite up there and took some pictures. Then continued over the top of this beautiful mesa thick with cedars and sage brush against the beautiful red dirt and rock. Stopped at two Anasazi ruins—one out in the open on the mesa and the other we hiked up to a canyon and observed these cliff dwellings from the other side of the canyon. The prickly pear cactus were in bloom. Beautiful. Had dinner in historic Bluff where the Mormans settled in the early 1800s. Had a wonderful meal of beef ribs slow cooked with cabbage, onions, and carrots. They only buy open range beef with no hormones or anything else added and their vegetables come from a garden across the street. Drove back to Gouldings. Started out in the low 70s this morning. It was in the mid-60s at the top of the mesa. The high was 81.

View from our site...

Our site

Approaching Gouldings RV Resort, Monument Valley

Monument Valley

Painted desert

Area around Flagstaff

Distant Drums RV Resort to Gouldings Monument Valley RV Resort: Left this morning around 10:00 and headed up Rt. 17 to Flagstaff. Uphill all the way and the truck worked just fine. So, I guess the GMC guy was right. It was about 20 degrees cooler in Flagstaff. And it’s so pretty in this area with thick pine forests and mountains all around. After leaving Flagstaff we drove through a variety of ecosystems. Mostly desert with buffalo grass and sagebrush and cedars. Drove through the painted desert which was a moonscape in some areas and in others the hills were different shades of pink. Stopped at Tuba City for some lunch and continued on. After Tuba City we started seeing clumps of grass with pretty little flowers--all pastel shades of violet, orange, and white. Stopped at Kayenta for fuel and then headed north on Rt. 163 through Monument Valley. What a magnificent place! We’re staying at Gouldings RV Park which is right in the middle of Monument Valley. The RV Park is up a beautiful canyon and we have red bluffs all around us. And Gouldings has a restaurant, a lodge, a grocery store, a gas station, and a laundry. It’s in the middle of nowhere, so we’ll have everything we need right here. Coming up Rt. 163 through Monument Valley we hit a cross wind that I thought was going to blow us off the road. One of the worse we’ve experienced. 83 when we got here. They say it goes down into the low 50s at night. Oh yeah!