Monday, July 29, 2013

Hoquiam River RV Park, Hoquiam, WA:  Headed out late morning to explore around a little.  Drove south to Westport which is a cute little fishing village.  Then continued on down the coastal road.  But not much to see.  Apparently, all the beauty of Washington lies inland, not on the coast.  Cloudy all morning, but cleared off by 2:30.  Still only 65.

Grays Harbor Lighthouse

Sunday, July 28, 2013

Tower Rock NF Campground, Randle, WA, to Hoquiam River RV Park, Hoquiam, WA:  Spent the last 9 days in beautiful Gifford Pinchot National Forest.  Our campground was small--22 sites--and very pretty.  Lots of large Douglas firs in here--one which rivals the giant redwoods in California.  We were here to explore Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, and environs.


Mt. St. Helens:  This was a very interesting learning experience for us.  Mt. St. Helens was what they call a dry eruption.  No lava, but tons of rock, dirt, and extremely hot gasses.  And it was a side blast.  The north side of the mountain started developing a bulge which grew at the rate of an average 5 feet per day.  It had bulged out 400 feet just before it blew.  The geologists expected an upward, lava event.  So they declared an evacuation zone of 5 miles.  This thing blew 17 miles laterally, snapping huge, old growth trees and depositing up to 600 feet of ash and rocks in the Toutle River valley.  Spirit Lake sits at the foot of the mountain and as a result of the blast it now sits 200 feet higher because of all the stuff that sits at the bottom of the lake--mainly trees.  It's bigger now because it was "bumped up" 200 feet, but shallower.  A man by the name of Harry Truman owned at lodge on the lake but refused to leave.  He and the lodge are now under 200 feet of ash, rock, and other debris.  57 people lost their lives.  And there are many stories of people in the blast zone who miraculously survived.


This is a picture of a picture and not very clear, but this is Mt. St. Helens before the blast.

This is a picture taken after the blast.  The surrounding mountains in the blast zone which were covered in a lush conifer forest were blasted down to bare rock.

Spirit Lake with lots of floating logs.  
And we noticed when we were up there a second time, a new bulge is forming in the crater.  And steam was coming out.  Yikes!


Mt. Rainier:  This place was magical.  Mountains covered in firs as far as the eye can see, beautiful waterfalls crashing down lofty mountains, pristine streams, wild flowers in abundance, alpine meadows—and in the center of it all, beautiful and majestic, glacier-topped Mt. Rainier.  We stopped at every viewing spot possible and eventually made it up to Paradise Inn, the lodge in the shadow of Mt. Rainier.  We had planned to eat there, but the restaurant didn’t open for dinner until 5:30.  There is a paved pathway leading up the mountain from the Visitor Center and Paradise Inn that goes through alpine meadows of great beauty.   Since we’re starting to feel the effects of the altitude, we didn’t even attempt this.





Beautiful wildflowers!

Paradise Lodge and Inn.
In the center of it all--beautiful Mt. Rainier.

We went back to Mt. Rainier a couple of days later and hiked the Grove of the Patriarchs Trail.

These two are over 1000 years old!  The trees, that is.
We drove in to Randle from our campground several times to have breakfast or dinner at our favorite restaurant, Tall Timbers.  One morning we ran into these two--Danna and her beautiful husky/wolf mix dog, Arou.  

Danna and her dog, Arou.



Arou--husky/wolf mix.

Thursday, July 18, 2013

Ft. Stevens State Park, near Astoria, OR:  Left this morning early—for us anyway—and headed south on the 101 to see the Oregon coast that we missed when we headed inland to Portland a couple of weeks ago.  Started out under cloudy skies, but it cleared pretty quickly to reveal a pretty blue sky.  Stopped at what is now Ecola Beach where Capt. Lewis and some of his party (including Sacajawea) traveled down the beach from Ft. Clatsop to obtain some whale blubber from a dead whale that washed up on shore.  When they got there, only a skeleton was left, but they bought 300 lbs. of blubber and some whale oil from the Indians.  This would be a welcome addition to their meager diet of mostly elk and fish.  We also stopped in the cute little town of Seaside to see the salt works that members of the Lewis and Clark party built and used to make salt.  Had lunch at a little place on the bayocean peninsula where a river (don’t remember which one) meets the Pacific.  Came back and stopped at Ft. Stevens which was used from the Civil War through WWII.  It was decommissioned in 1947 and ceded to the state and became Ft. Stevens SP.  Back to our site and relaxed.  Our last day in Oregon.  Tomorrow we leave for a National Forest campground between Mr. Rainier and Mt. St. Helens in Washington.  If all goes well, we’ll be there for 9 days.  No hook-ups.  67 today.

Surfers out there doing their thing.  Air temperature was 61.  Water temps probably in the 50s.  Brrrrr!

I read somewhere that these huge rocks are what used to be headlands.

Tillamook Rock Lighthouse.  This is located 1.2 miles off Tillamook Head south of Seaside.  It has a 62-foot high tower and stands 135 feet above sea level on a basalt rock islet.  Its exposure to fierce storm waves gave rise to its nickname, "Terrible Tilly".  We've now seen every lighthouse on the Oregon coast.

This stretch of the 101 which rises high above the Pacific has the most extensive rock work of the whole highway.  It's basically holding up the road.  
Salt works--just off the beach in what is now Seaside.  Some members of the Lewis & Clark party camped here from January 2, 1806, to February 17, 1806, and made salt.
Me and Sacajawea
Picture by Mike

Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Ft. Stevens State Park, near Astoria, OR:  Cloudy and cool all day today.  We went to the Maritime Museum in Astoria which is a fairly new museum in this small river town.  We could also tour a light ship, the Columbia.  There are some really large ships that ply the Columbia River.  Where the river meets the ocean is pretty dangerous, and waves of 40 feet are common.  Ships are required to stop 6 miles out and take on a “bar pilot” which takes them up the mouth of the Columbia River to the bridge in Astoria.  Then they need a river pilot to take them up to Portland, or wherever. No wonder Lewis and Clark couldn’t make it out to the Pacific from the Columbia River in their canoes.  The waves were so high they kept getting swamped.  We had lunch at a little diner in Astoria and then headed back to our park.  Took a drive down to the beach to view the wreck of the Peter Iredale, which ran aground in 1906 on Clatsop Spit which is now part of the park.  The wrecked hull of the ship sits on the beach, and has for ~70 years.  68 today.


This is a map of all the ship wrecks in and around the mouth of the Columbia River.

Large ships ply the Columbia.  This one is from Hong Kong.  They anchor in the Columbia and wait for word that they can continue on to Portland.  There's no charge to anchor here, whereas in Portland they could be charged up to $1000/day for dockage.


This Japanese boat washed up on Cape Disappointment on the Washington side of the Columbia--a result of the tsunami.


Coast Guard rescue boat on the crest of a huge wave.  This boat is auto bailing and would automatically right itself in the event it capsized.  


The wreck of the Peter Iredale on an Oregon beach.











Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Ft. Stevens State Park, near Astoria, OR:  Well, it was supposed to be 80 and sunny today.  And it was sunny early this morning. But by the time we got dressed and headed out, the clouds had moved in.  Drove back to Astoria because I wanted to check out a possible river cruise.  Then we headed back to Ft. Clatsop, stopping in Warrenton for some lunch.  Ft. Clatsop is where Lewis & Clark and the Corps of Discovery wintered before heading back to St. Louis.  And we visited here on an appropriate day, since of the four months they spent here, only 13 days were without rain.  Still cloudy and now sprinkling off and on.  Although they were busy putting up provisions for their return trip (they made 385 pairs of moccasins for the men) boredom still set in.  And they were pretty miserable with the constant rain and cold.  After leaving there we searched out and found the place where a Japanese submarine shelled the Oregon coast.  The only time the mainland was shelled during WWII.  It didn’t do any damage or anything, but I’m sure it got everyone’s attention.  Only 65 today, cloudy and damp.

Ft. Clatsop front entrance.

Cabins where the Corps lived.

Fort's back entrance which led to the spring.

Captain's quarters.

I never knew about this shelling of the Oregon coast by a Japanese submarine.

Sculpture of Sacajawea and her son, Jean Baptiste.  She's 16 years old.


Mon, July 15:
Portland/Fairview RV Park, Portland, OR, to Ft. Stevens State Park, near Astoria, OR:  Bid farewell to Portland this morning around 10:00.  We took I84 west and then I205 north and then took the I30 bypass, eventually crossing the Willamette River to Rt. 30.  The Willamette River in this area is not very pretty, with large oil storage tanks lining both sides of the river.  But pretty quickly we were in a pristine area with a pretty valley to the north and steep, wooded hills on our left.  Drove through cute little towns of Scappoose, St. Helens, Rainier, and then historic Astoria.  Followed the Columbia River most of the way.  The river really widens as it meets the Pacific.  Ft. Stevens State Park sits on a peninsula that juts into the Pacific.  A really nice park with a nice campground, extensive bike paths, equestrian trails, several lakes and nice beaches.  Our site is really nice with lush vegetation between our living area side and the site next to us.  Very private.  After getting set up we walked over to one of the lakes using one of the bike paths and then a trail through this beautiful forest.  We’re here for only four nights.  Wish it was longer.  And we have full hook-ups which is unusual for a state park.  73 when we arrived.

Our site.

Sunday, July 14, 2013

Portland/Fairview RV Park, Portland, OR:  Another beautiful, sunny day.  This morning as I was walking around I noticed a couple of people washing their rigs.  Usually that’s not allowed at commercial parks.  So, I got back and suggested to Mike that we at least wash the front of the fifth wheel.  I told him I would do the washing and he could rinse.  Worked out really well.  Got most of the crud off and it looks much better.  After finishing that chore we went out and fueled up the truck and did the grocery shopping.  We’ve had a great two weeks here.  Tomorrow we head back to the Oregon coast—way north on the coast.  We’re staying at a state park right on a point overlooking the ocean.  Going to check out Fort Clatsop where Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery spent their last winter.  Should be interesting.  Low 80s today.

Chinese Garden--Portland, OR